Lots got done tonight! Let's see...
First I pulled all the screws from the plywood shelves. Then I very, very carefully cut the slots in the transom for the stringers to go in. More of those pesky angles.
Then I carried the transom over to the jig (man it's heavy!) and carefully high-stepped over the sides of the jig and the centerline string, set it on the jig, and temporarily propped it in place. It wants to tip backward towards the wall so I cut two legs out of 2x4s, screwed them to the floor then let the transom lean back on the them.
Next a string was hung to provide a vertical reference to the centerline string to align the transom from left-to-right. The long blue level was used to verify that the transom was level with the jig side-to-side. The short red level was used to verify that the shelves were level front-to-back. And I carefully measured the distance from the front of the shelves running across the transom to the back of the jig.
Hopefully this will insure that the transom is square to the hull and sides. The only measurement I didn't do was to verify the angle of the transom, but at this point it's moot as all the other measurements are more critical. I suspect I'm within a degree or so.
Next I took off the four clamps for the two forward jig locations and lifted the tips of the shelves at the bow up almost level with the main jig, removed the clamp at the tip and loosened the screws. I wanted to take the stress off of everything so things could find a natural balance for the next step; tying the forward shelves to the rear shelves at the transom.
You might recall I was going to scarf these pieces together with a 5:1 scarf, but I changed my mind and recut them back to a 45 degree angle. I needed to sacrifice strength for accuracy when I cut the piece that bridges the gap. I cut the front and rear shelves with the angle facing up, cut the bridge piece with the angle facing down, drilled a pilot hole through each joint, drove a locator screw all the way through and then backed it out just so the point was still sticking out to help line up the joint.
Made up a batch of epoxy and wetted out the faces of the scarfs and then did it again. Poured some of the epoxy in another container, made peanut butter, liberally slathered it on the upward facing angles and then screwed the pieces together. Last I cut some pieces of 4 oz fiberglass, cut a hole in the middle of each (to miss the locator screw) and put them over the scarf joints.
Then I went back to the bow. Wetted out the faces of the shelves twice where they meet, then applied a thick coat of peanut butter. Clamped them together and ran the locator screws back in. Pushed the shelves back down in the jig and reset the four clamps. Wetted out the top of the tips and the bottom of the bowstem, applied another thick coating of peanut butter and carefully aligned the bowstem on top. Locked it in place with two screws, then locked the 4x4 in place with screws.
Next was strengthening the bowstem to shelf joint by carefully making sure any gap between the bowstem and the shelf tip was full of peanut butter, created small fillets in the corners of the sides of the bowstem and applied two layers of 4 oz cloth. I'll trim these tomorrow, pull all the screws and the clamp and create a small fillet on the back side of the bowstem. Last I swept the floor, then laid down on my side and looking up under the tips (about a six inch gap) I pushed peanut butter up into the gap that opened up when the tips spread when pushed down. Renn would have you drive a screw or two up through the tips and into the bowstem, but there's no way I have enough room to do that. His jig stands six inches taller so that works for him.
Did some cleanup, put tools away and spent a few minutes admiring what is really starting to look like a boat!
This will need a couple days to cure fully with the cooler temps, but I've a couple other things I can work on in the meantime. I also discovered that I'm going to need to lengthen the pull strings on the lights! :-)
4 Hours